I’ve spent a December in southern Italy. This December, I’m spending it in the north.
They’re nowhere close to the same trip.
Sicily in December is a chore jacket and sneakers and a layer you carry more than you wear. Venice in December is a wool coat or a puffer, and sometimes you want both at the same time 😅
Most packing lists treat Italy like one climate. It isn’t. There are roughly 700 miles between Venice and Sicily, and December treats those two ends very differently, which is what makes what to wear in Italy in December such a frustrating thing to search for.
So I built this guide by region instead. North, center, south. Three plans that can each fit in a carry-on.
Here’s what you’ll learn today:
✅ Exactly what to wear in Italy in December in the north, the center, and the south
✅ The layering rule that keeps your sleeves from bunching up under a coat
✅ Which Italian towns to skip in December, and where to go instead
What To Wear In Italy In December, Region By Region
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Estimated reading time: 27 minutes
What to wear in Italy in December depends almost entirely on which part of Italy you’re visiting. The north sits near freezing at night and needs a wool coat or a puffer, Rome and Florence hover in the low 50s and need a mid weight coat, and Sicily can still reach 60 degrees in the afternoon. I recommend that you pack one warm base wardrobe and swap only the outer layer by region.
☔ First, A Quick Word About Where To Go
Before you pack anything, know this: Italy’s coastal resort towns largely close down for the winter.
Positano, Amalfi, Capri, Portofino, and much of Cinque Terre run on a seasonal calendar. Plenty of hotels, restaurants, and attractions shut until spring.
They’re beautiful in December, and they’re also very quiet. If you want them buzzing, go in the shoulder season instead.
December belongs to the cities and the Christmas markets in the north. Rome, Venice, Florence, Milan, Verona, and Naples are all fully open, fully lit, and genuinely lovely this time of year.
🎯 Also read: If your trip starts in November, read this one first
Jump to your region:
- The North: Venice, Milan, Verona, and the Christmas markets
- Central Italy: Rome, Florence, and Tuscany
- The South: Sicily, Naples and Puglia
🧣 What To Wear In Italy In December: The North
Venice, Milan, Verona, and the Christmas markets in the Dolomite mountains are going to be cold in December.
Expect daytime highs around 45°F and nights that drop into the low 30s. December adds frequent rain, and Venice surprises unsuspecting visitors with the occasional acqua alta (flooding), which can make for unexpectedly cold and wet adventures.
This is also Christmas market country. Venice sets up along the canals, the Verona Christmas market fills Piazza dei Signori, the Bolzano Christmas market is the biggest in the country, and Milan runs several right through the month.
You’ll be outside, standing still, at night. Dress for that and everything else feels easy.
I’m heading north myself this December, so this section isn’t theory. It’s exactly what’s going in my bag.
How To Think About Tops In Northern Italy
Okay, here’s my number one rule for December: everything has to stack.
Everything you wear is going under a coat. Anything with high volume at the shoulder has nowhere to go once a coat sleeve slides over it.
That’s why I go with flat knits and set-in sleeves.
My anchor piece is the Mongolian Cashmere Fisherman Turtleneck, and it’s the first thing I’m packing for December in Northern Italy. The turtleneck is warm, cozy, and it dresses up enough for dinner without a change of clothes.
I’m bringing an Unbound Merino Rib Fitted Long Sleeve to go underneath on the coldest days. It’s slim and ribbed, so it genuinely disappears under a turtleneck instead of bunching at the shoulder.
Merino also keeps working after several wears between washes, which is the whole reason it earns space in a carry-on.
If you tend to run hot, pack a short sleeve cashmere tee.
Short sleeves sound wrong for December until you’re sitting in a heated restaurant with your coat on the back of the chair. Then it’s exactly right. (again, only if you tend to get hot. That’s definitely not me 🤣)
Layers And Outerwear For Northern Italy
Up north you’ve got a decision to make, and it comes down to what your trip looks like.
If you’re doing markets, evenings out, and long walks in the cold, take the long puffer. Mine is burgundy, and it packs down far smaller than it looks like it should, which is the only reason a puffer earns space in a carry-on at all.
On the colder days, I wear all my layers underneath!
If your trip leans toward dinners and city days where you want to look pulled together, take the Wool Cashmere Cocoon Coat. Mine is caramel, and the cocoon cut means a heavy sweater underneath still has room.
Pick one. A puffer and a wool coat both going in the bag is how a carry-on trip stops being a carry-on trip.
💡 Pro tip: One layer I skip is the long cardigan. A cardigan can’t be longer than the coat going over it, and most of the cozy ones are. You end up with knit hanging below your hem, which doesn’t look great in my opinion.
I bring a cashmere wrap on every single trip because it’s a scarf outdoors, a shoulder layer in a freezing restaurant, and a plane blanket. Three jobs, one piece.
Buy it bigger than feels sensible. A small one only ever works as a scarf, and the whole point is that it does more than that.
Bottoms And Skirts For Northern Italy
I start every trip with bottoms, because they set the tone for everything else.
- My everyday pair is the cropped wide leg Ponte pants. Ponte holds its shape all day, doesn’t wrinkle in a packing cube, and dresses up at night without a second thought. I style them with leather sock booties and cashmere socks to keep my feet warm.
I’m 5’4″ and the cropped wide leg is cut beautifully for me, but it’s not the best length if you’re taller. If that’s you, the full Ponte category has longer cuts and extended sizing.
- For genuinely cold days, wool trousers do what no other bottom does. They’re warm without a lining, so you’re not adding bulk at the hip.
- Jeans still work here. The Bella Stretch Relaxed Straight in a blue wash has enough room to wear tights underneath, which a slimmer leg doesn’t.
- For evenings, the Bella Stretch Wide Leg in faded black reads dressier than blue denim and takes you from a museum to dinner without a change. (skinny jeans also work!)
💡 Pro tip: both pairs of Bella jeans come in four lengths, so pick your length rather than accepting a hem that puddles. This is the single easiest way to make inexpensive jeans look expensive.
And yes, you can wear a skirt up north. My Mongolian Cashmere Midi Skirt is coming with me, but it only works over tights. Bare legs on a Venice canal in December is a decision you’ll regret.
So, under skirts, I wear Unbound Merino tights. Merino is warmer than it looks, it takes up almost no room in a bag, and it keeps working after several wears.
If you’d rather have leggings, Unbound Merino makes those too, and they double as something you can wear on a travel day.
Shoes For Northern Italy
Up north, December is wet. This is the one region where waterproof isn’t optional.
My recommendation is two boots plus a backup. Start with the Ariat Wexford Waterproof Chelsea Boot for daytime walking, since it handles Venice damp and Milan drizzle without looking like a hiking boot.
My Quince sock booties are going in for evenings. The heel is 1.5 inches, which is enough to feel dressed and low enough that cobblestones aren’t a problem.
💡 Pro tip: if you’re like me and can’t do a full day on your feet in boots (I hate boots LOL), my pick is the casual and comfy Vessi Soho waterproof sneakers. They keep your feet dry without the boot fatigue.
These are a solid option for cities like Milan and Verona, but won’t be warm enough when heading into the mountains where it’ll likely snow.
🎯 Also read: The best shoes for cold weather travel
Accessories And Three Outfit Ideas For The North
A hat does more for you than an extra sweater. A cashmere beanie is on my own packing list this year, and there’s a cable knit version if you want something a little more unique for this stylish Italian region.
Gloves are where I’m the odd one out. I’d honestly rather have cold hands, so I rarely wear them.
But most people aren’t me, and standing at a Christmas market at 9pm is exactly when you want them. Cashmere lined leather gloves are the warm option.
⭐️ Bonus: cashmere fingerless gloves are a great travel pick. You’re on your phone constantly in a new city, and you won’t be peeling a glove off every two minutes to check Google Maps.
I also carry a crossbody bag in dusty pink and never a tote. Crowded markets are prime territory for thieves and pickpockets. Check out my favorite crossbody bags for travel.
Three combinations I’ve already planned out for the trip:
- Walking day in Venice: turtleneck, Ponte pants, long puffer, sock booties
- Christmas market around Verona: merino base layer, cashmere sweater, long puffer, cashmere beanie, pashmina
- Dinner in Milan: cashmere midi skirt over thermal tights, turtleneck, wool coat, booties
If You Are Heading To The Christmas Markets In The Mountains
Bolzano and Trento are a different climate from the rest of the north, and worth planning for separately.
Bolzano sits in the Dolomites, so December highs hover around 40°F and nights drop into the 20s. Trento is only a little milder.
Up there the coat question answers itself. You want a thick puffer, not a wool coat and not a lightweight one. A coat that looks beautiful in Venice won’t keep you warm standing at a market stall at 25 degrees.
Your waterproof pair is also handling snow and slush rather than drizzle, so grip matters as much as dryness.
And this is the one place I wouldn’t send you out in fingerless gloves. Standing at a stall in the cold is exactly when you want your fingers covered.
🍂 What To Wear In Italy In December: Central Italy
Rome, Florence, and Tuscany sit in the comfortable middle.
Rome in December usually runs in the mid 50s during the day and drops to around 40°F at night. Florence in December runs a few degrees cooler, and Tuscany in December sits at or below freezing overnight once you get out into the hills.
The thing people underestimate is the rain. Central Italy gets a decent amount of it in December, and it tends to arrive as steady drizzle rather than a quick shower.
The other thing to plan for is heat. Churches, museums, and restaurants are warm, and you’ll be in and out of them all day.
How To Think About Tops In Central Italy
Here you want layers you can take off, not layers you’re stuck in all day.
A turtleneck is lovely outside and miserable inside a heated basilica. So make your main sweater a cashmere crewneck instead, and keep the turtleneck for evenings.
Underneath, a Free Fly Seawool Flannel Shirt gives you a layer you can unbutton and push up your sleeves in without losing the outfit.
💡 Pro tip: this only works as a flannel. A crisp poplin shirt has no warmth to give and no give in the fabric, so it does neither job well.
The same stackability rule applies. Flat knits and set-in sleeves, nothing with volume at the shoulder.
Layers And Outerwear For Central Italy
One good mid weight coat carries the whole trip.
The Barbour Beadnell Fleece Lined Quilted Jacket is the right weight for Rome and Florence. The fleece lining handles the temperature and the quilting handles the drizzle.
A word on cocoon coats, because they get recommended for Italy constantly. They’re not waterproof and only suitable for a light drizzle. That said, a stylish cocoon coat can still be great for Rome and Florence when the December weather is more damp than rainy.
I’m bringing this one with me for my December trip to Italy.
The Bottoms And Skirts I Recommend For Central Italy
Ponte pants and relaxed straight jeans cover almost everything you’ll do here.
A midi skirt over opaque tights works beautifully for dinner in Florence, and it takes up almost no room in a carry-on. Looks great with a cashmere sweater and leather boots. You’ll fit right in with the stylish Italians!
The Best Shoes For Central Italy
Shoes are where central Italy gets specific. Rome and Florence are both relentlessly cobblestoned, and you’ll walk further than you plan to.
Your feet will hurt before they get cold here, trust me. So Vessi for wet days, leather sneakers for dry ones. Again, I love my Quince sock booties for a special night out.
Accessories For Central Italy
Don’t skip the accessories just because it’s central Italy. I know, I know, it’s milder. It’s still December.
Tuscany drops to freezing overnight in the hills, and Rome and Florence both get cold once the sun goes down and you’re still out at dinner.
A cashmere beanie and a cashmere wrap take up almost no room and cover the gap between a mild afternoon and a cold evening.
💡 Pro tip: the wrap does double duty in central Italy. You’ll be in and out of heated churches all day, so having something you can pull off in two seconds beats a scarf you have to unwind.
Three combinations for central Italy:
- Sightseeing in Rome: flannel shirt, cashmere crewneck, quilted jacket, Ponte pants, leather sneakers
- Rainy day in Florence: merino base layer, crewneck, quilted jacket, jeans, Vessi
- Evening out in Tuscany: turtleneck, midi skirt over tights, wrap, booties
🎯 Also read: The best pants for travel, tested by a full-time traveler
🧳 Still Not Sure Which Version To Pack?
Three regions, three different Decembers. If your trip crosses more than one of them, the packing list gets complicated fast.
Tell me where you’re going and how long you’ll be gone, and I’ll send you a packing list built for your actual itinerary.
It’s free and it takes 20 seconds.
Answer two quick questions here ⬇️
☀️ What To Wear In Italy In December: The South
This is where December stops feeling like winter.
Sicily in December runs around 60°F in the afternoon and drops to the high 40s after dark.
Naples in December sits between the two. Daytime is closer to Rome in the mid 50s, but the nights stay milder than central Italy, so it needs less coat than you’d pack for Florence.
I spent early December in Sicily and the daytime was genuinely pleasant. The evenings were the surprise, because the drop happens fast once the sun goes down, especially if you’re spending time in a hill-top town!
Naples deserves a mention beyond the weather. It doesn’t close for the season the way the coastal towns do, and Christmas there is a serious event 🎄
How To Think About Tops In Southern Italy
Leave the turtleneck home. You won’t need it.
A cashmere tee and a few lighter knits will carry your days here. Warmth isn’t the problem in the south, the temperature swing is.
A cashmere crewneck in a lighter color covers the evenings without tipping into full winter territory.
Layers And Outerwear For Southern Italy
The short puffer is the right length here. A long puffer can work too (locals definitely wear those), but in my opinion, it wasn’t needed. And keep in mind, I tend to run cold.
For daytime, a chore jacket is the piece I reach for the most. Mine is rust, and it’s warm enough for a 60 degree afternoon without committing you to a coat.
If you want one jacket to carry the whole southern leg, the LL Bean BeanFlex Utility Jacket is the one I’d point you to.
It comes in regular, petite, and plus. Petite outerwear is genuinely hard to find, and a jacket that hits your hip instead of your thigh changes how the whole outfit reads.
A field jacket does the same job if you prefer that shape. The Madewell Easy Utility Shirt-Jacket in dark navy is the one I’d start with.
It’s a shirt-jacket rather than a true jacket, which is the useful part. It layers under a coat if you head north, and a structured jacket won’t.
Everlane is worth a look too. Both brands sit in the same quality over quantity lane as Quince, so the pieces mix without looking like they came from different wardrobes.
Whichever jacket you choose, make sure it matches your bottom pieces and that you try it on with the rest of your layers. I usually size up with most jackets to make sure they look good when layered with sweaters.
💡 Pro tip: if your trip covers both the north and the south, take the long puffer. It still works in Sicily after dark, and a short puffer can’t handle a Venice evening.
Bottoms And Skirts For Southern Italy
Ponte pants and jeans handled almost every evening I had in Sicily.
Down here the question isn’t warmth, it’s whether your bottoms go with everything you packed.
A cashmere midi skirt still works down here, but the same rule applies as everywhere else in December: wear it with tights or leave it home.
Shoes For Southern Italy
For shoes, leather sneakers are my daytime pair here. They’re my go-to casual travel shoe, and the south is dry enough that you don’t need the waterproof pair the way you do up north.
Booties come out at night, same as everywhere else.
I know ‘what shoes to pack’ can be a hard decision. But I’m bringing my Vessi’s and the Quince sock boots as my only 2 pairs of shoes for 3 months in Italy. I promise, it will be fine :)
The Mountain Town Exception
One morning in Sicily we drove up to hike Mount Etna. Down in town it was mild enough that I questioned why I’d packed a puffer at all.
Up on the volcano it was a completely different day, and the layer I’d almost left at the hotel was the one I wore all afternoon.
It was the same experience when visiting Sicily’s hill-top towns a few weeks earlier. The wind whips through these towns and can make them feel super chilly!
⭐️ Bonus: if you’re hiking in Southern Italy, including on beautiful Mt. Etna, I’d add a third pair of shoes. If you have an active day planned, something grippy like the On Cloudsurfer 2 earns its space. Otherwise, stick to two.
Three combinations for the south:
- Town day in Sicily: cashmere tee, chore jacket, Ponte pants, leather sneakers
- Excursion day: merino base layer, lighter knit, short puffer in the bag, grippy sneakers
- Dinner in Naples: lighter knit, jeans, short puffer, booties
Quick Recap: What To Wear In Italy In December
Tops:
- Cashmere Fisherman Turtleneck for the north and cold evenings
- Cashmere Crewneck for heated churches and museums
- Cashmere Tee if you tend to run hot
- Unbound Merino Rib Fitted Long Sleeve for the coldest days
- Free Fly Seawool Flannel as a layer you can open
Outerwear:
- Long puffer or the Wool Cashmere Cocoon Coat for the north, pick one
- Short puffer for the south
- Barbour Beadnell Fleece Lined Quilted Jacket for central Italy
- Chore jacket or the LL Bean BeanFlex Utility Jacket for southern days
Bottoms:
- Cropped wide leg Ponte pants, best at 5’4″ and under
- Longer Ponte cuts and extended sizing if you’re taller
- Wool trousers for the coldest northern days
- Bella Stretch Relaxed Straight Jeans in blue, roomy enough for tights underneath
- Bella Stretch Wide Leg Jeans in faded black for evenings
- Cashmere Midi Skirt, only over tights
- Unbound Merino tights, or their leggings if you prefer those
Shoes:
- Ariat Wexford Waterproof Chelsea Boot for northern days
- Quince booties with a 1.5 inch heel for evenings
- Vessi if you can’t do all day in boots
- Leather sneakers for central and southern days
Accessories:
- Cashmere wrap, buy it oversized so it does all three jobs
- Cashmere beanie or the cable knit version
- Cashmere lined leather gloves or fingerless cashmere gloves
- Crossbody bag, never a tote in a crowded market
And there you have it. Three regions, no wrong guesses.
The thing I want you to take away is that what to wear in Italy in December isn’t one answer, it’s three. Pack for the region you’re actually visiting and the whole trip gets simpler.
And if you’re visiting two different regions on the same trip, pack the pieces that overlap and prioritize the longer stretch of the trip. Try not to pack something big (like a puffer) if you’re only going to need it once 😉
Build one warm base, swap the coat and the shoes by region. That’s honestly it.
Thanks so much for reading!
XO,
Aimara
PS: crossing more than one region? Answer two quick questions here and I’ll build the packing list around your actual route.
About the author:
Hello there, I’m Aimara 👋 a full time traveler and the creator of Ways of Style.
Since 2021, everything I own has traveled with me and my husband Gordon in one carry-on, which means every piece has to earn its place in this tiny 20″ suitcase.
I’ve spent months in Italy across the seasons, from the north all the way down to Sicily, and this December we’re heading back up north again.
My whole thing is helping women travel lighter, dress better, and actually enjoy the packing process instead of dreading it. Of course, all while loving your vacation outfits.
If you enjoyed this post, I think you’re also going to love these:
- What To Wear In Italy In November
- What To Wear In Italy In October
- The Best Shoes For Italy In The Fall
- The Best Shoes For Cold Weather Travel
- My Layering Strategy for Cold Weather Trips!
What To Wear In Italy In December FAQ
How cold is Italy in December?
It depends entirely on the region, which is why what to wear in Italy in December changes as you move down the country. Italy December weather runs around 45°F during the day in Milan and Venice, mid 50s in Rome, and close to 60°F in Sicily. Nights drop noticeably everywhere, so the gap between afternoon and evening matters more than the daily high.
What should I pack for Italy in December?
Build one warm base wardrobe and swap the outer layer by region. What to pack for Italy in December comes down to a packable puffer or a wool coat, two or three flat knits, Ponte pants or wool trousers, tights, and two or three pairs of shoes depending on your trip.
Can you visit the Amalfi Coast in December?
You can, but a lot of it will be closed. Positano, Amalfi, and Capri run on a seasonal calendar, and many hotels, restaurants, and ferries shut down until spring. If the Amalfi Coast is the reason for your trip, go in the shoulder season instead and spend December in Rome, Naples, or Sicily.
Do I need waterproof shoes for Italy in December?
In the north, yes. Venice in December can bring acqua alta, Milan in December is damp and foggy, and Lake Como in December gets steady rain. In central and southern Italy you can usually manage with cushioned sneakers and a bootie, though a waterproof pair never hurts.
Are the Italy Christmas markets worth visiting?
They are, and they’re concentrated in the north. The Bolzano Christmas market is the largest in the country, the Verona Christmas market takes over the city center, and Milan runs several through December. Dress for standing still outdoors at night rather than for walking, because that’s what you’ll actually be doing.
What are the best Italy in December outfits for evenings?
Evenings are where Italy winter outfits get dressier without getting complicated. A turtleneck with Ponte pants and a low bootie works everywhere in the country, and a midi skirt over opaque tights does the same job with a bit more polish. Add the coat and you’re done.
Is Sicily warm enough for lighter clothes in December?
During the day, yes. Sicily in December is comfortable in the afternoon and you can get away with a chore jacket rather than a coat. Evenings cool off quickly though, and if you’re heading up Mount Etna the altitude makes it genuinely cold, so bring a warm layer with you.
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